TRAINING TIPS FOR PUPPIES
Training Tips for puppies
The importance of proper obedience training and socialization for your puppy or adult dog cannot be stressed enough. Of special importance are the following facts: They have been known to save a dogs life.
A dog that knows to stop and lay down instantly with a hand and vocal signal will do so if he gets across a busy highway or any other dangerous place and he will stay there and wait for you to retrieve him rather than coming to you and possibly crossing in front of a car.
Being well behaved makes them especially welcome any where they go with you and much easier to live with.
Training at home with an instructor will give you the knowledge and ability to train for basic obedience and your dog the knowledge of the commands, but training in a class will give you and your dog the ability to work with all the distractions of other people, surounded by noises and other dogs so they will have a much better ability to listen to you and obey your commands in the hustle and bustle of the real world.
I always recomend teaching a few real basics such as sit, down and walk on leash (not neccessarily healing) before starting a regular class as that way the pup has a basic idea of what to do before getting to work with the confusion of other beginner dogs and owners.
This does not necessarily apply to a socialization and beginner puppy kindergarten class. This would be started by 3 to 4 months of age and can be done with no prior instruction.
I also recomend watching a few regular obedience classes before you enroll, especially if there is a choice of more than one in your area and choosing the one where you feel the most comfortable and see the dogs and people are working the best and most happy and relaxed.
Make sure the trainers use positive training methods, not punishment.
This also gives you a better understanding of what you will be doing before you start, making it easier for you once you actually go with your dog. It is also advisable to take the dog and just sit in and watch classes in progress so when the new classes start that you will be entered in, your dog also has a feel of the atmosphere and sights and sounds of where they will be working. If possible, you will want to get your CGC. (Canine good citizen certification). It is reasonably simple and nice to have. This is a must for any one considering doing therapy work and certifying a therapy dog.
A fun bonus is the ability to go to some shows and get obedience titles and meet other people who enjoy working with their dogs.
Training tips and tricks help turn your pup's bad habits
into good behavior.
Baby pups are soft and clumsy, with oversized paws and jaws built
for milk, not meat. But this changes fast! New owners know
their puppies will grow and mature, of course, but few are prepared
for the reality-dogs first mature physically, then mentally.
Meanwhile, that fast-growing energy goes into boisterous play
and exploration.
To a pup, exploring involves chewing, shredding, zooming, digging,
nipping, jumping and barking. These natural behaviors
make it hard to keep pups out of mischief. Sometimes there's so much chaos that owners worry that their rough, destructive pups might be mentally abnormal.
Fortunately, that's usually not the case.
Most pups are perfectly normal-though rambunctious and uncivilized. But don't despair, the situation is fixable, even preventable, with training. Try imagining your pup's present behavior in a full-grown dog. If you don't like what you see, start teaching it better ways to behave right now. Dogs seek ways to get what they want. They do this through trial and error, unless someone shows them a more direct route. Here are some practical tips to help you guide your pup's behavior
from maddening into manageable in ways you'll both enjoy.
1. JUMPING UP
Pups learn this one before they leave their mamas. They jump up to greet her when she comes to nurse them. Later, when they're eating solid food, they jump on the legs of the person bringing their dinners. Pups also jump on their littermates in play. Your puppy probably also learned early in life that friendly people would pet it when it put paws up on them. When that occasionally failed to work, pup persisted and discovered that vigorous jumping results in more immediate attention. You can teach a better trick.
That sitting politely results in wonderful attention.
Teach your pup to sit, holding a treat slightly above its nose so it reaches up to nibble, then sits. Say, "Good sit." Reward your puppy with a treat.
If your pup jumps up when greeting you, turn away, so its paws slide down. After you turn away, ask the pup to sit (luring with treat only if necessary).
Reward with a treat, praise and petting. If done consistently, your
puppy soon will learn that sitting politely yields treats, praise and attention.
2. NIPPING
Many people, especially children, wrestle with pups or encourage them to bite fingers, feet or clothing in play. In a few short weeks, the game becomes less fun for the people because the pup is starting to hurt them. About the same time, the game becomes more fun for the puppy because it's starting to win. Sandra Petersen, director of education and outreach at Sauk County Humane Society in Baraboo, Wisconsin, says, "Puppy biting is normal behavior, but puppies can become conditioned to be in an aroused state, which is not good." Petersen recommends putting pups on a structured schedule that includes plenty of outdoor exercise to use some of their energy.
Well-exercised pups are less frantic and rowdy.
Teach your puppy that human skin is fragile and nipping isn't an acceptable way to play.
Petersen says, "We accomplish this by communicating to the pup that it's biting too hard.
" One way is to yelp 'Ow!' when the pup nips.
Act like it really hurts, or your pup may think you're playing and nip harder . If nipping continues, stop petting and withdraw your attention for about 10 seconds.
Then calmly redirect your puppy to an appropriate chew-toy and pet it gently while it chews. If the pup prefers chewing you instead of the toy, just refuse to play. Let it spend 10 or 15 minutes alone. When puppies are nippiest, it's often because they're tired and cranky.
Give your nippy pup a time-out in its crate or quiet place.
It may nap and wake up sweeter. When a puppy is so nippy that it's
difficult to pet it without getting chewed, Petersen recommends playing
with it while it's tethered. Hook a leash or short cable to the pup's non slip collar or body-harness and fasten it to something immovable. A folding pen could be used instead, if preferred. Pet and play with the pup as long as it's gentle, but when it starts nipping, walk out of range. The tether or pen prevents the puppy from following. It will soon realize nipping makes friends leave.
Some pups get very nippy when they are hungry. Try feeding slightly larger portions of food for several days and see if that helps. Also, shortly before mealtimes, practice some skills you've been training, such as a sit, using dry dog food as rewards. This way your puppy can simultaneously snack and practice good manners.
3. ROUGH PLAY
Wrestling, chasing and competitive games will teach your puppy to pit its strength and speed against yours. It's better to teach games of cooperation.
One such game is Go Wild and Freeze. It alternates energetic action
with holding still. It's fun and helps puppies practice self-restraint when
excited. First teach your pup to sit for treats. To play the game, wave your arms and make noises. When your pup begins to get excited, stop and stand tall.
Ask the puppy to sit. Give a treat and praise when your puppy sits.
Once your pup plays this game well with just you, add family and friends.
An adult should lead until young players understand the rules. Give each player a treat, then say "go wild." Have everyone wiggle and make happy sounds. Call "freeze" before the pup becomes overexcited. Have everyone stop and stand tall. Whoever is closest asks the puppy to sit and rewards it with a treat.
4: HOUSE WRECKING
Puppies can wreck a house when left unattended, chewing everything and Messing everywhere. Prevent this by restricting unsupervised pups to areas You’ve puppy proofed. Pug breeder Kevin Ross of Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada, advises owners to crate train their pups. "Dogs that are Crate trained usually will be house-trained faster because they will try not to eliminate in their crates. It also keeps your dog from getting into things when you're not home." Ross recommends introducing the
crate as soon as your new puppy comes home. He also points out that
the crate should represent a pleasant haven for the dog, not a place of
banishment. Dogs enjoy cozy, den-Iike places and a plastic kennel or crate can provide this.
In an appropriately sized crate, your dog should be able to stand up,
turn around and lie down comfortably. Petersen notes that pups need to
spend lots of time with their people, but they also need private time each
day to rest or just be a dog. Petersen suggests locating the crate in a central area, like the kitchen. "The pup will learn to settle in the presence of its people," she says. Teach children to leave the pup alone when it's in its private space.
5. BARKING WHEN LEFT ALONE
Dogs left alone all day bark to relieve boredom. Indoors, barking usually
focuses on outside activity viewed through windows. Outdoor dogs also bark at what they see and hear outside the yard's fence. If possible, block the dog's view of activities that stimulate barking.
Outdoor barking really annoys neighbors, because sound travels farther without walls.
Petersen suggests a solid-panel fence around the dog's kennel or tie-out area to block the View and dampen sound. She also emphasizes the importance of enlisting the neighbors to help solve barking problems. Ask for their help in determining likely triggers for the barking. Dogs that spend too much time alone usually don't get enough exercise or mental stimulation, resulting in boredom barking. For proper socialization and a happy, relaxed attitude around people, dogs should spend at least six hours a day in the company of humans.
A minimum of one hour of that should be quality time with you, including training, interactive play and walks. Ten hours a day, every day is a long time for any 'dog to be left alone and far too long for a growing puppy.
If your work schedule forces you to leave your pup alone all day, some
options may be available. You'd be surprised at the difference in your pup's behavior if it spent a few days a week at doggie daycare or with a pet sitter who would drop by your home to play with and exercise your pup. You may even have a neighbor who'd enjoy visiting with your pup while you're at work.
Dogs spend most of their alone-time just hanging around and loafing, so it probably won't get much exercise while you're away. A good outdoor walk or run should be part of its daily routine for fitness and mental stimulation.
While your dog is home alone it may get a little more exercise if you pack it’s breakfast into a food-dispensing toy, Manipulating the toy to get the food out will provide some physical and mental exercise.
6. DIGGING
Dogs dig for fun, exercise,. to make comfy spots, because they hear or smell something underground, or simply because they're bored. Many dogs are avid diggers when puppies, but give it up when grown. For others, digging becomes a lifelong hobby. Deal with diggers by teaching them the proper place to dig. Decide where the good digging hole will be and start one your- self with a shovel.
Or you could buy (or build) a child's sandbox and fill it with
playground sand. Loosen the top few inches of soil and half-bury some dog biscuits and a toy or two. Show your pup the half-hidden goodies and encourage it to dig there. Fill all other holes in the non-appropriate spots.
To make a stronger statement, bury some of your pup's poop
near the surface of these holes, covering it with an inch or two of soil.
Most (but not all) dogs will avoid contact with their feces, so won't re-dig that hole.
7. CHEWING
Chewing is another normal behavior that often becomes a problem. Pups develop preferences for chewing certain textures, so teach your puppy to prefer chew-toys and chew-bones. When you leave your pup alone for even a minute, be sure it has chew toys. If you don't provide a chew toy, your pup will go looking for something else to chew- usually your stuff. Toys that hold and dispense food are excellent because they hold a pup's attention and give jaws a good workout. When your pup chews something it shouldn't, calmly take the item away or remove the pup from that area.
Give the pup a toy or bone, and encourage it to chew that.
If possible, put the forbidden item where the puppy can't reach
it so it won't chew it again. If the item can't be removed,
apply a bitter anti-chew product to make its taste less attractive.
If providing plenty of interesting and delicious chew items and making
everything forbidden taste yucky doesn't work, It's most likely because
your pup isn't getting enough exercise, mental stimulation or social
interaction. When those are lacking, pups release their frustration by
chewing, digging, barking, escaping and other maddening natural canine behaviors.
8. FOOD GUARDING
To prevent food guarding, you must teach your pup that having people near- by while it's eating is not a threat. The following techniques teach that people are food-bringers, not food-takers., .Feed your puppy some of its dinner by hand each day. Place your hand in the pup's bowl while it eats and offer it food from Your palm. Take away the bowl while the pup eats., add delicious tidbits And return it.
Hold one end of a bone while your pup chews. Talk to your pup quietly and gently Pet it while it’s eating.-.
9.NOT POLITE TO FRIENDS
For good manners with visitors,
Teach your pup to sit or lie down on a mat neat the door when people arrive. Once you’ve welcomed guests, supervise your pups introduction. Have the puppy sit for greeting, gently restraining it from jumping if necessary. If your pups too excited, have the visitor move back for a moment until you Regain your pups attention. Involve guests in the pup's training.
Have them pet or give treats when your pup asks nicely,
but ignore it if it's too pushy. Good manners generalize quicker when
friends reinforce the pup's lessons.
10. ESCAPING
Any energetic or bored dog is inclined to escape from the yard when
left alone. When trainer Lauren Fox of Canon City, Colorado, deals with
canine escape artists, the first thing she recommends is making the home area more interesting. "Many times these guys are escaping because they're bored out of their minds. These dogs need to be physically and mentally challenged. Keep your dog occupied so it doesn't have to look elsewhere for entertainment and exercise." Fox suggests stuffing food-delivery toys, such as Kongs, Crazy Balls or Molecuballs {available at pet-supply stores), and hiding them where your pup will find them during your absence. Food should be easy enough to get out to Be reinforcing for the dog but difficult enough that it’s challenging and fun.
Try several different ones to determine which work best for your dog.
These toys will help it stay busy and guide it to good chewing habits, as well.
Sara Gregware, a trainer and professional dog show handler in Goshen,
Connecticut, notes that some breeds are natural diggers and climbers.
To prevent escapes, Gregware recommends enclosing the tops of kennel runs And anchoring the wire to the concrete floor or to railroad ties. A pen or kennel should be only for exercise, though. The rest of the time, the dog should live in the home with its human family. times.)
11.WON'T COME WHEN CALLED
What can be more frustrating than calling your pup and then watching it
Trot away? Try this fun new way to teach your pup to come, by teaching it to Target (touch) your palm with its nose for a reward. Pups learn this trick quickly With clicker training. ( a form of training using a click sound to reinforce desired behavior. )
Start by saying "here" and handing your pup a treat. Click when the dog
reaches for the treat, reward. (Repeat a dozen times.) Now offer your empty palm and say “here”. Your dog will target your palm, looking for the treat, even though There are none there. Click when it touches your hand. Then quickly give it a treat.
(Repeat a dozen times.) Practice here several times daily, using
yummy rewards. Work at different distances and in different places.
Always reward when your dog comes!
12. PULLING ON LEASH
Most dogs pull because it makes you walk faster. Dogs do what works for them, so if your dog discovers that pulling slows you down, it will soon quit that unproductive behavior. Teach this by standing still when your pup pulls and refusing to move until it lightens up. Clip on the leash, say "let's go" and start to walk. If your pup races ahead, stop when the leash tightens. Stand still unti1 the dog stops pulling, then proceed. If pulling continues more than 3 seconds after you stop, slowly back When the pup notices it's losing ground It will turn and look at you to see what’s holding you up. At this moment the Pulling stops. Praise and walk again.
Polite walking takes practice and repetition. but your pup will soon realize that pulling activates your brakes, not your accelerator. If your pup's strength outmatches yours or if it gasps from collar pressure against its throat, consider fitting it with a head collar. This dog-sized version of a pony halter works by turning the dog's head gently to the side when it pulls. It’s safe and it doesn't hurt.
You'll enjoy your puppy so much more when its natural wild-child
behavior comes under control. It's not difficult, but it does take daily practice and gentle guidance. But now you have the keys to teaching polite behavior , and if you spend some time each day training your pup, those maddening behaviors will become manageable before you know it-and both you and your pup will be happier for it.
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